The BCC would like to encourage our community to keep multiple topics in mind when placing new hardware in the Front Range. This includes working with landowners to ensure permission, keeping in mind the local ethics of our crags and fostering positive gains from new development and fixed hardware
When installing fixed hardware at climbing areas it is critical to know the rules and regulations for the land manager where the climbing area resides.
This past week, a two bolt anchor was installed at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon next to the route “Gill Crack”. The placement of this anchor was such that it would only be suitable for ground school learning. Castle Rock is located on Boulder County Parks and Open Space (BCPOS) land and the fixed hardware was placed without the land manager's approval. Furthermore, BCPOS currently has a moratorium on new fixed hardware being installed on climbing areas within their land. As a result, the fixed hardware was removed and the drill holes patched.
By installing fixed hardware and ignoring land management regulations, individuals are negatively impacting the strong relationships the climbing community has built with various land managers along the Front Range.
While ground school anchors are an excellent option for teaching and learning, installing bolts at established crags is not the appropriate method. A few areas that have already been established to aid in learning climbing skills are the Classroom at Staunton State Park, The North Quarry at North Table Mountain and the multi pitch route “Trenchtown” at Lower Tiers of Zion. Another readily available option are practice boards which can be placed using traditional anchors or slung around a tree and can be removed at the end of the day.
The BCC’s Anchor Replacement Program is the leading organization for ethical bolt replacement, and the local stewardship organization for the Front Range. Learn more and get involved by visiting BCC’s website.
Questions can be directed to BCC’s Stewardship Director, Ryan Kuehn ryankuehn@boulderclimbers.org
