To date, working alongside partners, BCC has helped replace over 600 bolts! We also have organized several massive re-bolting single day efforts:
- Castle Rock in BoCan (150+ bolts, 2017)
- Roof Routes in Eldo (49 bolts, 2016)
- Mickey Mouse Wall in Eldo (120+ bolts, 2015)
- Anarchy Wall in Clear Creek (90+ bolts, 2014)
HOW CAN I GET INVOLVED?
There are a variety of things you can do to help this effort:
- Donate cash and become a member to help with the costs of bolt replacement
- Report bad bolts when you see them
- Take it a step further and become an FHP Assessor: Spend lots of time on the crags? Is Mountain Project your friend? Are you up for paying close attention to the fixed hardware you clip, and to be trained in qualifying the current condition of this hardware? Want to give back to your fellow climbers – and log this information for public use? If so, talk to us! Email firstname.lastname@example.org to get involved!
- If you have bolting experience become an FHP Mechanic: Are you a deranged climber? Do you take joy in hauling large quantities of metal and cord up approach trails? Do you like to hang out on vertical walls in your harness for hours at a time with 25lbs of assorted gear and power equipment dangling about you? Are you intrigued by impossible puzzles based on unknowable facts buried in granite and sandstone walls? Do you get satisfaction in doing these things for free, with likely no other recognition for your time and efforts? If so, WE HAVE A JOB FOR YOU!! Email email@example.com to get involved! And check out these awesome bolt-replacement video resources from the Access Fund.
Well beyond our efforts, the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC), Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE), and American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) have also played a huge part in bolt replacement locally.
FIXED HARDWARE PROJECT
To address the growing need to replace aging anchors, BCC has launched a new initiative: our Fixed Hardware Project. In a nutshell, the FHP goals include:
- Reduce potential climbing injuries
- Provide hardware and organize events for independent volunteers who replace aged or sub-standard fixed anchors
- Catalog and publish “last-known” condition of fixed hardware in the region to help prioritize replacement efforts and inform climbers of route condition prior to climbing
This will ultimately require a monumental effort. To keep pace with aging hardware, our initial estimate is we need 60 bolts replaced every month at a cost of about $1000 and requiring 20 volunteer days. That’s a lot! Read more about the FHP in their charter document. You can also read our Assessor’s Field Guide.
ARE YOU CURRENTLY DEVELOPING NEW ROUTES?
If you are using plated steel (inferior, shorter-lasting) hardware instead of stainless steel (better, longer-lasting), we’ve got some great news for you! Thanks to a new partnership with ClimbTech we’ll be able to extend a nearly 50% discount on stainless steel hardware! We’re doing this to encourage developers to use stainless steel during initial installation, and hopefully slow down the need for bolt replacement later. Interested in this deal? Contact Jason Haas at firstname.lastname@example.org.